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Day Three: the Smelly Hotel

September 7th, 2010

It’s amaz­ing, isn’t it, to think about how rad­i­cally dif­fer­ent road trips are with the addi­tion of a GPS unit and a iPhone? With help from Yelp, the Chowhound boards, and occa­sion­ally Road Food, it’s hard to find any­thing but an awe­some meal. I would have been a ter­ri­ble pioneer.

This has become the trip where I fell in love with grits. I think through­out the South I was man­ag­ing to get a serv­ing of grits once a day. Break­fast grits? Love them. Sat­ur­day morning’s grits came from one of Val­o­rie and Alberto’s local joints, and didn’t dis­ap­point. We ran into Perch to say farewell to the host­ess to the most­ess and I fell in a love with a Stray Dog Designs lamp (this one, if I remem­ber cor­rectly) which I may have tried to sneak into the car if it had not been a wee bit out of my price range.

Lunch was in Breaux Bridge. We stopped at Poche’s Mar­ket, per­haps deter­mined to con­tinue our down­ward spi­ral. We ate some green beans, for what it’s worth. (Let’s not dis­cuss that they were on the side of a pork stew and some craw­fish etouf­feé, OK?)

We rolled into Hous­ton just in time for din­ner with Ryan’s col­lege friends (their wed­ding was the first one we attended as a cou­ple!). They have two adorable daugh­ters and busy sched­ules so we picked up din­ner from Taco Cabana, which, if those existed near my house, I think I would turn into a taco myself.

Still in Hous­ton, we stayed in the world’s most unfor­tu­nate La Quinta. Our room smelled of some­thing so ter­ri­ble we could not name it. Wet horse? When Ryan men­tioned it Sun­day morn­ing at check­out, the per­son at the front desk said, “Well, what did it smell like?”

The answer: not any­thing I want to ever smell again.

Day Two: Finally Out of Florida!

September 7th, 2010

If you have not had the plea­sure of dri­ving across I-10, or just flee­ing Florida, let me break the news to you that it takes an eter­nity to get out of Florida. Fri­day morn­ing (still in Florida), we ate some seri­ously amaz­ing quiche at Craig’s Killer Cof­fee, a semi-random cof­fee shop inside a video store. Should you find your­self in Tal­la­has­see, I rec­om­mend it.

We made it to Pen­sacola (still Florida) in the after­noon and stopped at Cap­tain Joey Patti’s. (Link goes to the fish mar­ket owned by the same fam­ily. The free­stand­ing restau­rant is about a block away.) I feel fairly con­fi­dent that I’m eat­ing fresh seafood when you can see fish being hauled off of boats nearby. To truly have our South­ern seafood expe­ri­ence, we ate hush pup­pies, fried fish, and a mas­sive slice of red vel­vet cake. To drink? Sweet tea, of course.

Finally, New Orleans (not Florida!)—I had emailed Val­o­rie to ask for a dog-friendly din­ner rec­om­men­da­tion, and she ever so gen­er­ously offered us her guest room. What a treat! She and Alberto are, unsur­pris­ingly, fan­tas­tic hosts. If I had had my act together, I would show you some of the beau­ti­ful details of her home, her adorable pooch Cholo, and the two of us together—Valorie look­ing very chic and me look­ing, well, not chic.

We took a long walk around their neigh­bor­hood to stretch our legs and, I know every­one says this when they visit New Orleans, but could the peo­ple be any nicer? I think every per­son we passed on the street said hello, talked to Harry, or, at the very least, smiled. Now that liv­ing in the trop­ics no longer fazes me, I think we could adapt to New Orleans’ humid­ity with­out issue.

Din­ner Fri­day was at the very lovely Coquette, where Ryan sam­pled a decent por­tion of the cock­tail menu, and I ate noth­ing bad. Pork belly ravi­oli, yel­low­tail crudo, beignets with a choco­late pot de crème. My mouth waters, and it’s three days later.

Day One: The Long Goodbye

September 7th, 2010

I had big plans of blog­ging from the road, snap­ping trip pho­tos and writ­ing lengthy reviews of every­thing we’ve seen and eaten. How­ever, both of our phones started dying what “True Blood” would call the True Death, and ser­vice has been spotty through­out the South and South­west, and despite the cozy bed for Harry in the back, he’s spent most of his time on my lap or scal­ing a pile of suitcases.

Harry the bichon on a pile of suitcases

So, we ate our last Miami meal at Michy’s on Wednes­day night. It was great, and we left full and happy, but I feel like Michelle Bern­stein needs to change her menu a lit­tle more often. That might be an unfair crit­i­cism, espe­cially since I’ve eaten at both Sra. Mar­tinez and Michelle Bernstein’s in the past month, and there’s a bit of over­lap in the three menus, but I won­der if she’s spread a lit­tle thin these days.

Thurs­day the movers came and we had Cheese Course sand­wiches before dri­ving off into the sun­set after­noon sun.

We stopped in Ocala at Harry’s. The restau­rant sits on Ocala’s town square, where there was a vigil for two Great Danes who had been killed. Harry enjoyed meet­ing many local dogs, though he was very sad about the cir­cum­stances. We made it just out­side of Tal­la­has­see Thurs­day night.

Life for Sale

August 28th, 2010

OK, it’s not life. It’s just stuff.

But some of it is really good stuff.

We sold two of our three sofas, Freecy­cled our com­post bin and started a pile for dona­tion. Once I start—well, I can’t stop. So with­out sell­ing the chair out from under my bum, I looked out­side. Remem­ber these?

Cute, right? But the pro­cras­ti­na­tion on the whole cush­ion issue meant we were sit­ting on blan­kets when we sat out­side. And when was the last time we sat out­side, any­way? (Actu­ally we dined al fresco last night—and it was not the most pleas­ant expe­ri­ence.) This recent Krista Ewart–designed house in House Beau­ti­ful is right up my alley:

But—and it’s a big but—we have no idea what our next place will be like. So I started to think about sell­ing. I didn’t want a long, drawn-out Craig expe­ri­ence, though, so I sent a photo to Circa Who to see if they were inter­ested. Circa Who is eas­ily my favorite store in West Palm Beach, stuffed full of awe­some­ness like this:

Circa Who Tables

When the owner, Tracy, emailed me back to ask when she could pick them up, I was thrilled. It’s one less thing we have to move, and, hey, my stuff will be for sale in a store I love!

Dear Florida

August 26th, 2010

Let’s be hon­est: this has been a long time com­ing. We’ve always wanted dif­fer­ent things from each other. To say “it’s not you, it’s me” would be a lie. Because, well, it is you. We’re just not compatible.

I don’t think we should remain friends—it would be too hard. In fact, I’d like to never see you again. I wish you all the best, and I hope you find some­one who accepts you as you are. I’m sorry I never could.

Love,

The Reluc­tant Florid­ian (soon to be the Much More Enthu­si­as­tic Californian!)

More Stiltsville: Interview with Author Susanna Daniel

August 3rd, 2010

Remem­ber Stiltsville?

Author Susanna Daniel kindly left a com­ment on that post, and agreed to answer a few ques­tions about Stiltsville, her first novel, and Stiltsville, the place.

Photo of Stiltsville the book

What was Stiltsville like when you went there grow­ing up?

I think that even for those of us who spent a lot of time at Stiltsville, there was always the sense that it was a mag­i­cal place. Here we were just miles from down­town Miami—we could see the sky­line from the stilt house porch—and yet iso­lated in a very real way. As a young kid, I didn’t real­ize what a trea­sure it was, of course. I assumed that my whole life there would always be a place where my fam­ily could retreat, an island get­away (lit­er­ally or fig­u­ra­tively). Of course that’s not true. As a teenager, I’m ashamed to say I resisted Stiltsville because it took me away from par­ties and friends, but as a younger kid I loved every­thing about it. Even the food—at Stiltsville, we ate things we never ate at home, like white­fish spread and arti­chokes with mayonnaise.

Photo of Stiltsville

I’m fas­ci­nated by Stiltsville logis­tics: Was there a lot of social­iz­ing between houses or did fam­i­lies stick to one place? Did you spend nights there or just go for the day?

We always went for at least one or two nights, and some­times came home early Mon­day in time for school. My fam­ily knew a lot of other Stiltsville fam­i­lies casu­ally, but for the most part we didn’t social­ize while we were out there. I think my par­ents con­sid­ered Stiltsville a place to be together as a fam­ily. Maybe once a week­end there was a party at another house and we’d watch the boats pull up, and we could hear the music. But we didn’t host big par­ties our­selves. But my friends were always invited to come with us to spend the week­end, and most week­ends we had one or two guests.

Is there any­thing left of your grandfather’s orig­i­nal stilt house?

Noth­ing. After Hur­ri­cane Andrew, there were still a few pil­ings, but there was no dock and no house. Now even the pil­ing have been removed.

Photo of Stiltsville

Why did you decide to set your novel in the past, and par­tially at Stiltsville?

Miami has changed a lot in the years since I’ve lived there. That doesn’t mean I wouldn’t set a novel in Miami in the year 2010, but I wanted to write about what it was like to live there in the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s— dur­ing the years when Miami was really grow­ing into the city it is today. I wanted to write about the tumult and cri­sis and excite­ment of that period—this was the time of the Mariel boat lift and the McDuffie riots and the cocaine cow­boys, and of course Hur­ri­cane Andrew.

As for Stiltsville, I knew I wanted to write a quiet fam­ily drama, a domes­tic story of a marriage—and Stiltsville is really the per­fect loca­tion for fic­tion. You put your char­ac­ters on an island and make them stay there, together, for any period of time, and some­thing inter­est­ing is going to come out. I think the iso­la­tion of the place gives oth­er­wise sub­tle fam­ily dynam­ics a lit­tle more urgency and heft.

Photo of Stiltsville

You’ve lived in Florida and now call the Mid­west home. What do you love and hate about each locale?

Well, what I love and hate about both places is the same: the weather. I live in Madi­son, Wis­con­sin, where the nat­ural world is basi­cally forced into sub­mis­sion for nine months of the year—and then for three months every­thing is so lush and ver­dant that really the city looks more like Miami than one might think. I don’t hate the win­ter, but it’s long, and every year when we have our first really cold day, I feel enor­mously sad for just a lit­tle while. Then I go walk­ing on the frozen lake near my house, and light a fire in the fire­place, and set­tle in for the long season.

I will say that some­times I feel more com­fort­able in Miami because it’s such a quick, vibrant, chaotic place, whereas Madi­son moves at a slower pace, and is more sub­dued in gen­eral. I don’t think it’s uncom­mon for a per­son who has moved to another part of the coun­try to feel like a bit of an alien from time to time, but the peo­ple here in Madi­son are kind, thought­ful, and incred­i­bly gen­er­ous, and I’ve found a sec­ond home.

Hammock photo with house in distance

Describe your ideal day in Miami. What are the things you have to do when you are here?

I love going to the beach, though some­times I think this might be more from nos­tal­gia for my youth—and the days I spent at the beach as a teenager—than any­thing else. Now, I’m likely to fret about sun­screen, snacks for my kid, that sort of thing—for me, it’s a lot more dif­fi­cult to relax as an adult than it used to be, though that doesn’t seem to be the case for other Miami­ans, who seem to live like life is a vacation—which is envious.

Stiltsville photograph

I often hear peo­ple say that “nobody is from Florida—everyone is a trans­plant from some­where else.” Since you’re a native who’s since left, why do you think this is? Is Florida some­place you envi­sion return­ing, or are you happy to have left?

It’s funny, because I don’t have a ton of friends from high school who still live in Miami, but I know quite a few peo­ple from col­lege who have moved there. Where I live now, pretty much every­one is from nearby. But when I do tell peo­ple I’m from Miami, as often or not peo­ple say that they’ve never known any­one from there. Which is incred­i­ble to me, of course.

One thing about writ­ing this book is real­iz­ing how many peo­ple out there, all around the coun­try, have a strong con­nec­tion to Miami, even if they don’t live there cur­rently. I’ve heard from so many peo­ple who say they lived there for a short time, or trav­eled there fre­quently, or have rel­a­tives there and trea­sure their vis­its. It seems to me that Miami is a place that inspires peo­ple to talk about their time there, almost as if it’s got­ten under their skin. I don’t think every city has that kind of pull and power, and I am proud to call myself a native.

Susanna, thank you so much for tak­ing the time to answer my ques­tions. All of the above pho­tos are from Susanna’s family—I think I would like to step back in time and live in all of them! Stiltsville is out now and can be found at your book­seller of choice. Locals, be sure to check out Susanna’s sched­ule, as she has sev­eral read­ings planned for the area.

Cabbage + Blogging = Cablogging

July 22nd, 2010

My love affair with cab­bage began in my post-college kitchen, when I worked my way through Lorna Sass’ Short-Cut Veg­e­tar­ian. Sass uses cab­bage in a ton of recipes, and I can see why: it’s cheap, it’s plen­ti­ful, and it’s so ver­sa­tile. A few weeks ago, with a han­ker­ing for some­thing spicy, I tried out Smit­ten Kitchen’s every­day yel­low dal and the accom­pa­ny­ing slaw. The dal was good, but the slaw was out of this world. Two nights later, with the other half of the cab­bage, I made it again.

Help, I can’t stop mak­ing this slaw. It’s so good! Bonus: it works with red cab­bage too.
photo of red cabbage slaw

Cab­bage Slaw (adapted from the ever-awesome Smit­ten Kitchen)

Half of a head of green cab­bage, shred­ded (this goes quickly in a food proces­sor)
2 small ser­rano chiles, finely diced (use less if you pre­fer less heat; for even less heat, seed the chiles)
2 table­spoons fresh lemon juice, or more as needed
1 tea­spoon salt
1  tea­spoon sugar
1 table­spoon canola oil
1 tea­spoon mus­tard seeds

Toss the first five ingre­di­ents together. Taste for sea­son­ing; there should be a bal­ance of sweet and sour.

Heat the oil in a small skil­let until smok­ing, then add the mus­tard seeds. Cover the pan. The seeds will start pop­ping. When they have stopped, remove from heat and pour the oil over the cab­bage mix­ture. Toss thor­oughly. The salad can be served cold or at room tem­per­a­ture, but it needs about 15 min­utes of rest time so that the fla­vors can develop.

This is great with the afore­men­tioned dal, but I’ve been lov­ing it as a side for grilled meat.

This keeps well for a few days, but will lose a bit of its orig­i­nal crunch.

The Lilly Jeep Gets an Oil Change

July 14th, 2010

A Nice Place to Visit

July 11th, 2010

My BFF came into town last Thurs­day to attend a wed­ding (and take me as her date). Sat­ur­day after­noon we checked into the wed­ding hotel and had a few hours to kill before we needed to get ready. I sat by the pool with gos­sip mags, she went to the ocean. I said some­thing I never thought I’d say: “Eh, I can go to the beach any­time.” What can I say? I was really excited about this pool, though the lady in the bathing cap was not there.

Photo of National Hotel, South Beach

It started to rain lightly and BFF returned from the beach. She declared in a very seri­ous tone, “I get Florida now.”

Appar­ently when you go to the beach in New Eng­land, the ocean is not the tem­per­a­ture of bath­wa­ter. The East­ern Seaboard also, I hear, lacks palm trees.

While we were at the wed­ding, my par­ents arrived from Kansas. (Ryan, son-in-law of the year, gra­ciously enter­tained them until my return on Sunday.)

Ten days of guests means a lot of eat­ing yummy food, shop­ping, dri­ving through pretty neigh­bor­hoods and gen­eral Florida Lite. Both BFF and my par­ents said some­thing like, “I under­stand why you don’t like it, but…” and it got me thinking.

Is Florida really that bad? Or are the places you like to visit not nec­es­sar­ily always the places you want to live?

Thing I Don’t Hate About Florida: the Heat!

July 9th, 2010

Last year, Mr. TRF sur­prised me with Miami Heat tick­ets. I hadn’t been to a pro­fes­sional bas­ket­ball game since Kansas City still had the Kings.

  1. That was a mil­lion years ago. Literally.
  2. Heat games are an excel­lent time.

So now I must decide: wait for a LeBron jer­sey or stick with Wade?

An aside: I wanted to quote mod­ern poet Jay-Z here—If Jeezy’s pay­ing LeBron, I’m pay­ing Dwyane Wade—but wor­ried that I might be miss­ing a metaphor. Here’s some help if you, like me, should not run around quot­ing Jay-Z.